Macro Photography

Macro photography is definitely one of the most exciting genres of photography. Many amateurs and pros try it time to time, including myself. But we all have seen images tagged with “macro” across the web, which in fact are not really macro images but rather – “close-ups” involving some bokeh. So, what is macro photography?

Macro Photography

photography producing photographs of small items larger than life size

to understand the idea of this definition, we have to introduce a term of magnification. Magnification, or the reproduction ratio, is the ratio of an actual object size to its projection on camera sensor. For example, if the object is 5 mm long in real life and its projection on sensor is also 5mm long, then the magnification is 1:1. But if the same object is projected on image sensor as 2.5mm long, then the magnification 1:2. Obviously, in this last case the size of the object in the image frame would be smaller compared to the case of 1:1 magnification. Generally speaking, the higher the magnification (2:1 or 4:1), the bigger the object appears in the final image.

In order to classify an image as “macro”, it needs to be taken at least at 1:1 magnification. Otherwise, all images that pretend to be macro, are simply close-ups.

How do we get high magnification

There are specialty lenses used for macro photography that give high magnification when focusing at close distances. Nikon calls those lenses “Micro”, while canon labels them as “Macro”. In fact they both refer to lenses with high magnification and can be used for macro photography. Manufacturers are so good at confusing consumers. It is worth mentioning that magnification is a lens feature, not the camera or sensor. But crop sensors have an edge over Full Frame cameras as they produce narrower field of view using the same lens.

Extreme Macro

Extreme macro is a term used for images taken at magnification higher than 1:1. This is achieved through very special lenses but there are tricks to get the same (or similar) magnification without spending a fortune on new equipment. You can in fact use the cheapest kit lenses (like 18-55mm) together with reverse adapters which convert them to extreme macro lenses. When the lens is attached to the camera in reverse, the highest magnification is achieved at the shortest focal distance. For example, if we reverse 18-55mm lens, then we get the highest magnification at 18mm. Images above and below are taken using this exact kit lens.

Focus and Depth of Field

This is a major challenge in macro photography. When aperture is wide open, the depth of field is so shallow that even the tiniest objects might be mostly our of focus. That is why most macro images are taken with closed aperture using some additional artificial lighting. If the object is static (like coins or jewelry) we can use focus stacking which basically involves taking multiple images with different areas in focus and stack them later in software.

Recommended Settings

As I said above, we have to close down aperture most of the time. So adding a flash is recommended. Support your camera with a tripod or monopod to reduce camera shake. I would recommend using Manual exposure mode and auto ISO. Do not forget to shoot in RAW as we will have to edit macro images most of the time.

Recommended Targets

Micro world is literally all around us: at home (coins), in the yard (insects, bugs, flowers). If you are planning to shoot insects, make sure you have enough time and patience, they are not exactly excited about being subject of your art. Some people use special chemistry to make insects dizzy and unable to run/fly away, but I am personally against it and find that way very irresponsible.